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Minolta XG-M capacitor replacement

About a year ago I bought a Minolta XG-M 35mm film camera kit from an auction on eBay. The kit consisted of the camera itself, the Minolta 50mm f/1.7 standard lens which was supplied with the camera when new, a Vivitar 28-85mm zoom and I think there was also a cheap Vivitar electronic flash in the case as well.

Since I paid only about £10 for the complete kit I was happy just to receive the 50mm standard lens; all the other kit such as theMinolta XG-M body and zoom lens was a was a bonus, so I wasn’t too upset when I found the camera didn’t work. It’s been on the back of my mind for a while to try to fix it however,  so a couple of weeks ago I picked it up and had a look at what was wrong with it.

The symptoms of the problems with the XG-M were that the shutter wouldn’t fire although the metering seemed to work correctly. These are the details:

I fitted new batteries, and turned the camera on and tried touching the shutter button. With the camera in auto mode, the display in the viewfinder would display the shutter speed on the left hand side of the display, but when I pressed the button the display went blank and the shutter wouldn’t fire. Because the shutter was cocked, the film advance wouldn’t work, but if I took the bottom case off the camera I could mechanically fire the shutter using a small lever at the front of the body. If I set the shutter speed manually it seemed to be firing at the correct speed so it just seemed to be a problem with the electonics which triggered the shutter.

A bit of internet research suggested the problem could be some electrolytic capacitors which are fitted in various points around the camera. Over time they start to leak electrolyte and become resistive. One is fitted in the compartment under the bottom cover, and three others are fitted to the PCB under the top cover. It was easy to see the capacitor under the bottom cover and sure enough, once I looked at it, I could see the tell tail signs of green corrosion on the leads so I could see it needed replacing.

Since I don’t have electrolytic capacitors I sent for some replacements from China (200 assorted values for £3.20!) and waited for them to be delivered.

An important point to make about electrolytic capacitors is that they have a polarity – the light bar on one side indicates the -ve side and the other side is the +ve side. The new components must be soldered in the same way as the components you take out.

Once I had the box of capacitors I could carry out the replacement. For the most part it is a relatively easy job apart from the fact that the components are small and you are working in cramped conditions. The capacitor fitted under the bottom cover was really quite simple to replace. I just took the bottom  cover off and found I could un-solder the old one and fit the new one without too much trouble. Because it’s possible that was the only fault I tried the shutter again, but the fault persisted, so I knew I would need to also replace the top cover capacitors as well.

Removing the top cover on the XG-M was easier than a lot of cameras, but you do need to be careful at a few points. The ring which holds the shutter button down is actually finger tight so can be easily undone, but it is spring loaded so you need to be careful it doesn’t spring up and get lost. Also, make sure you note the switch positions when you take things apart so you can replace things with the correct orientation.

With the the top cover off I checked the capacitors and sure enough the two under the circuit board had the signs of green corrosion on their leads so I knew I would need to replace them. The one on the top of the board looked ok, but I decided to replaced it anyway because I didn’t want to have to get the top cover off again after I’d refitted it.

The capacitor mounted on the top of the board was reasonably easy to replace. I just touched the soldering iron on the joints and pulled the capacitor free with a pair of tweezers. Then I cut the leads of a new 2.2uf capacitor to the same length and soldered it into the position the old capacitor occupied. I had to bend the legs a bit when I reassembled the top of the camera but it was reasonably easy.

The two capacitors under the board were a bit more tricky. I found the easiest way to remove them was to cut the body off the old capacitor and remove it so I could un-solder each leg independently. That was easier than trying to un-solder both joints and risk damaging the pcb.

I then cut the leads of the new capacitors to the right length and bent them so they fitted in the correct position. This was the most difficult part of the whole operation because you need to hold the component in the right place as you also solder the leads to the board. Three hands are useful here! I managed this by just tacking the first lead in place with the soldering iron, using the old solder from the pcb to get it to stick, and then remaking the other joint with fresh solder and finally remaking the first joint. Another approach which may have worked would be to use a small pad of double sided sticky tape to stick the capacitor to the board with the legs in the correct position and then re-solder the legs.

Reassembly of the top cover was a bit tricky because the lock button for the exposure mode/shutter speed button tries to fall out of the cover. I found I had to offer up the cover on it’s side and fit the camera in whilst also locating the viewfinder component which also tries to fall out.

Once I’d got the top cover on I tried the shutter again only to find it didn’t work! However, after a little investigation I found an orange lead which needed to connect to the same joint as the capacitor at the bottom had broken so I had to patch it. Once that was done my XG-M is working properly.


I’m a software developer by profession but I’ve been taking pictures since I was about 8 years old. In that time I’ve owned cameras of all types and sizes from 120 roll film thro’ 35mm to my current Pentax K-5, Ricoh GXR + P10/S10/A12 28mm/A12 50mm, Canon S95 and recently acquired Sony NEX 6.

  1. Wei says:

    Hello there, I have this exact model and it just started showing this problem. I am trying to fix this camera on my own.

    If it is not too much to ask, may I know where did you get your “assorted electrolytic capacitors”? A direct link or anything specific keyword to search for would be appreciated.

    1. Hi – I found them on eBay as a pack of capacitors of various values from China. They only took a few days to arrive in the UK and the quality looked fine. I can’t remember if I said in the article but I may have used slightly different values from the original ones – electrolytic capacitors have a very wide tolerance rating anyway so a close value should be fine.

  2. WEI says:

    Hello Simon,

    Thanks for the link. It helped so much 🙂

    In the box there are several capacitors within the box, is there any value that I should adhere to (to be placed in the camera), or I can picked any one that tickle my fancy since you said they have wide tolerance rating anyway?


    After replacing the capacitors of your XG-M, did you encounter any further problem with the camera itself, like winding mechanism failure?

    1. Hi – You should chose the value which is closest to the one which is fitted in the camera. In each case there will be a value printed on the old capacitor in uF and you should chose the closest value you can. I didn’t have any other problems once the capacitors were replaced

      1. WEI says:

        Hi Simon,

        Thanks for the advice. The reason I am asking about this is that I have heard some of the user claim to have other (electronic) problem after they have fixed the capacitors personally.

        Have you been using the XG-M frequently after you replaced them and how long has it been since you last repaired it?

        1. I was a while since I replaced them (about the date of the article) and I’ve not used the camera much since then (I’m a collector and only tend to use a core set of my film cameras most of the time). To be honest if your camera is showing the symptoms you’ve not got much to loose by giving the repair a try.

  3. Stewart Day says:

    Simon. I have two Minolta XG-Ms. One was a birthday present in 1984. Eventually the back seemed sprained and would flip open when it had film in. I got another on the Internet two or three years ago. Swapped the backs and both worked fine. I too got extra lenses, filters and flash etc for £28 an unexpected bonus. However a short while ago one of the cameras got a stuck shutter it sounds similar to what you describe. You don’t by any chance do any repairs for other people do you? Or know of anywhere that does such repairs? I tried to get a Canon Powershot repaired recently. It is only 12 years old but I was told no spares available.

    1. Simon Hawketts says:

      Hi Stewart

      Thanks for the comment – I’m afraid I don’t do repairs for other people but if the problem you have is the same as mine the repair is quite simple to do. It may just be the capacitor in the bottom of the camera which is really quite easy so it might be worth having a go yourself. Alternately, if you have any friends who are interested in electronics they could probably do it for you.

      Hope you get it fixed – Simon

  4. Hugo says:

    Only one capacitor in my X70 was leaking; the 33uF one on the pc-board inside . I replaced it with a 47uF, the smalest I could find. Works like a dream now. The lock button in your picture is the wrong way around, it should be turned 90° anti-clockwise

  5. Mike Spivey says:

    Thanks so much for posting this, a useful reminder that this job can be done without too much difficulty.

    If I do decide to undertake it, I will want to use modern, high-quality caps that ensure I won’t need to do it again — not the kinw of caps you can get in a job lot from Chinese suppliers.

    1. simon says:

      Hi Mike – probably a wise move

  6. H says:

    I realise that a few months have passed, but I will comment just in case someone finds it useful. I got a Minolta X300 with the capacitor issue… After reading Paul Beesley blog:
    I ordered the capacitors from RS (link in Paul’s blog). It was around £2 with free delivery and arrived the next day.
    Replaced it and it worked perfectly. One thing I would recommend, as I was worried that I would burn the circuit board with my dodger soldering attempts, is to cut the pins of the old capacitor close to capacitor body, and leave them sticking out of the circuit board, that way you can solder the new capacitor to the existing pins and not onto the circuit board.

  7. anffray says:

    Hi all !

    I have two Minolta : the X300s and the XG-M
    Both had the same problem :
    – The lever couldn’t be pushed more than about 30° and the shutter release button couldn’t be press to take a picture.
    – The led inside the viewer could switch on and and the light measurement could be done by the cell until the shutter button is pushed and then nothing is enlighten in the viewer.

    So everything indicated that it was the capacitor of the bottom that was burnt/too old and that the cameras were stuck because the shutter couldn’t be released.

    /!\ What is kind of weird is that on my XG-M the capacitor was originally inversed compared to the photos of this tutorial but I sticked the polarity of mine even if it didn’t work I tried both and no results. /!\

    Living in France, I ordered my capacitor on Conrad (took 5 working days to arrive and costs less than 0,50 € for each capacitors).
    I decided to respect exactly the capacitance and also as much as possible the voltage of the components.
    For the XG-M I ordered a 100µF/6.3V which is exactly the same as the original one.
    For the X300s I ordered a 220µF/6.3V which is also exactly the same as the original one.
    (Apparently if you take a higher voltage it is not a problem but the capacitor could be too large for the space in the camera).

    The replacement worked for the X300s but not for the XG-M so there might be other capacitors to change in that camera. (So I might have a look further one day (as we say in French “Quand j’aurai pas la flemme” and replace the other capacitors mentionned in this tutorial with photos and also you can find the capacitors to buy here on this post by StallBerger here : ).

    It was so satisfying when I pushed the shutter release button on the X300s and that I heard the camera doing its job and firing and then the lever could be pushed as it should be.
    This repair is easier on the X300s as the copper path is larger but with patience everything is achievable even for beginners ! You can use a piece of tape/blutack to hold the capacitor while soldering.

    Take care !

    Also here is a list of contents I read prior to identifying the issue and buying components : (Thank you for you tutorial and photos !) French.

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