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Praktica BMS 35mm electronic camera

This Praktica BMS is the sister of another Praktica camera in my collection that I posted about a while ago, the Praktica B100 electronic. Whereas the B100 was an attempt at a fully automatic camera, on the BMS the exposure is set completely manually.

Praktica BMS Images

My Praktica BMS Camera

I obtained this camera, as with most of my vintage camera collection, from eBay uk for a very reasonable £5.73 + £4.90 p&p.

It seems to be in just about perfect condition cosmetically with hardly a mark on it. It was supplied with a 50mm f/1.8 Praktica PB bayonet mount lens, and I also have a 28mm wide angle and 135mm portrait telephoto lens which I’ve included in the pictures above.

Although unmarked cosmetically, there seems to be a problem with the in viewfinder exposure display information. The LED’s which show the shutter speed work, but the under exposure LED is always illuminated and the solid LED which shows the correct exposure is not illuminated at all. This could be a fault with the camera, but since it is in such good condition cosmetically, I think it is probably the battery which needs replacing.

There is a battery check switch but this doesn’t seem to do much at all – and the description of what it should do in the handbook is fairly confusing as well. At some point I’ll buy a new battery to check it out. In the meantime the description below describes how the camera should work.

Praktica BMS Description

It’s a reasonably heavy camera to carry about, as was it’s sister automatic version the B100 indicating it is made in the same way using probably the same solid components. Certainly the lens mount is metal and pretty solid, and the whole camera feels well made and comfortable to use because of the nicely padded covering.

Exposure measurement

Setting the correct exposure is made by way of matching a flashing LED in the viewfinder with a solidly lit LED. The LED’s line up against a list of shutter speeds which the camera can be set to so it’s possible to determine if the camera can be hand held or needs to be on a tripod.  There are also under and over exposure markings which show  the photographer when to shift the aperture if necessary.

This is in effect match needle metering with the solid LED being the measured value and the flashing LED being the camera setting, and therefore can be used to set either parameter to get the exposure correct. These days I always think of the ‘exposure triangle’ and include the ISO, but of course with film one part of the triangle is fixed – the film speed – so  this system allows you to adjust either shutter speed or aperture to get the correct exposure.

Within the viewfinder it is possible to see both of those parameters because of a neat little trick to allow the aperture to be viewed. The front of the prism housing has a small window in which shows the aperture the lens is set to in a small viewport at the bottom of the viewfinder.

The light cell is fitted under the mirror in this camera and that is in common with several cameras of a similar vintage. My Miranda Sensomat does the same thing, and the Topcon RE Auto has a very sophisticated pattern of light measuring cells.


As well as the aforementioned shutter speeds in the viewfinder and the aperture setting, there is the usual 45deg split image focus assist in the centre of the viewfinder. I say usual, because a lot of the praktica cameras had this arrangement, and it’s a good idea because it works with most subjects in both portrait and landscape mode. There is also a microprism circle and the normal ground glass screen surrounding it.


The Pentacon lenses which I have for use with this camera are nice looking lenses with good levels of multicoating. In one way it’s a bit of a shame that Praktica didn’t use the Pentax K mount for their cameras because it would make it much easier to try them on my Sony Nex as I own a K mount adapter. Mind you, I would guess that it is the fact that they are a more obscure mount which makes them so cheap to buy. I think the 135mm lens cost £2 and the 28mm was about £5. I might invest in a PB to Nex adapter to give them a work out.

All the lenses are 6 blade apertures, and feature auto stop down and electronic contacts to communicate the aperture.

Praktica BMS Specifications

  • Praktica BMS 35mm SLR
  • Match LED metering system
  • Shutter speeds 4sec to 1/1000 sec + B
  • Shutter release lock
  • ISO 12 to 3200
  • Self timer
  • Praktica PB bayonet mount
  • Ser No 0215305
  • 50mm f/1.8 ser no 8101430
  • 28mm f/2.8 ser no 1050486
  • 135mm f/2.8 ser no 1013452
  • Manual available on line here


I’m a software developer by profession but I’ve been taking pictures since I was about 8 years old. In that time I’ve owned cameras of all types and sizes from 120 roll film thro’ 35mm to my current Pentax K-5, Ricoh GXR + P10/S10/A12 28mm/A12 50mm, Canon S95 and recently acquired Sony NEX 6.

  1. I haven’t tried this model. My favourite so far is the MTL5B that takes the common LR44 battery for the meter. Like most Prakticas, it’s a solid no frills affair that simply works. I like it because it’s a simple approach. It packs just enough for the user to get by without an issue for the most part. I’d say that the Praktica is probably my favourite type of camera for these reasons.

  2. Hello
    Did you manage to solve the problem viewfinder exposure display information?
    I have an identical camera and apparently have the same problem as you.

    Is battery problem?

    1. Hi I didn’t get it fixed unfortunately but I’ll see if I can dig it out and try changing the battery.

    2. Lora says:

      I also have an identical camera and I solved the problem with a new battery. Because the original one it’s expensive I improvised with LR44 and it worked! (I had to put four of them and add the head of a nail to fit properly)

  3. Mor says:


    Thank you for the nice review. I’ve recently bought the same model of Praktica. Everything seems to be working great except when shooting at 1/1000s.

    At this speed it works as if it’s in auto mode! I mean the shutter speed seems to be changing everytime i press shutter button based on the lighting conditions without any warning. sometimes the shutter is left open for maybe 10 seconds in low light conditions! this only happens at 1/1000s and other speeds are working okay.

    Do you have any similar problem with your camera?

    Thanks and btw sorry for my english

    1. Hi Mor – thanks for the comment.
      That sounds very odd, I will dig my camera out and check it again, but from memory everything was fine last time I used it. Have you tried new batteries ?

      1. Mor says:

        I guess the batteries seem to be the culprit since I put four 1.5 volt small batteries inside but they would not sit tight enough in the place to make contact… so I had to use a very thin piece of coin-shaped metal to make up for the very tiny gap between them…. then the meter leds were working fine and i assumed it’s all done,

        Anyway, I’ll give it a try putting proper batteries and hopefully it’s solved. Thanks,.

  4. Mor says:

    Btw I read your posts using vintage lenses on sony nex cameras. Wanted to know if you used any praktica b mount lenses on sony nex cameras via adapter? if so do you happen to know any “slim” adapter. I mean as slim as possible:)

    Because most of the adapters out there looks more like a extension tube rather than an adapter and keeping my camera unobtrusive is quite important for me!

    i have a sony a6000 and recently fell in love with the Carl Zeiss Jena 35mm f2.4. So i’m going to buy a used pb mount versions mainly for street documentary videography (that’s why i need it to be unobtrusive).

    1. I’ve not used the B mount lenses because I don’t have a suitable adapter for them. I have used the M42 equivalent however and they are pretty good.

      The distance from the camera to the lens is determined by the design of the lens and therefore you will only be able to get an adapter for the B mount lenses which is whatever that distance is – if you had a shorter one the lens wouldn’t focus properly. Basically, the lens needs to be the same distance from the sensor as it would be from the film in the original film camera.

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